On August 18, a foggy Sunday morning in Wangaratta, a group of nine dedicated walkers met for ‘The Paps’, a walk located in the Paps Natural Features and Scenic Reserve, just out of Mansfield. It was an early start for the 100km drive, and a short detour by my car was required to pick up walkers in Glenrowan. I was hoping that today’s walk would once again mark a significant day in our club’s history.
However it wasn’t to be, as Adrian was unable to join Tracey. This meant the men only equalled the women in numbers on today’s outing, rather than exceeding them. Men outnumbering women has only ever happened once – Sunday July 31st, 2022, on the Kancoona Gap Track.
The three cars regrouped in Swanpool, where glorious sunshine had replaced the early Wangaratta fog. Continuing on, we reached Lake Nillahcootie, where once again fog began to develop. Our final destination, just off the Maroondah Highway, was The Paps Road which is on private land. Jeanette dutifully opened the gate for the three vehicles to proceed, and was rewarded with a twenty-cent tip from Andrew.
For those who don’t know, Andrew drives a rather sporty and nice-looking Subaru. I thought maybe a gold coin donation, or even a paper note of significance, would have been more appropriate. It was 9.30am when we began walking from the carpark towards the first of the Paps.
Along the road we encountered some local walkers who happily shared their knowledge of the area. Andy, as usual, began sharing so much more. It was decided that people knew how to walk and talk at the same time, and so it was now put into practice. This first section of road had pleasant views over farmland and distant white animals, which later were agreed to be cattle, and not sheep. The low-lying fog with hills in the background, made the scene particularly wondrous.
The road climbed steadily, and after about 45 minutes, we reached a junction with roads leading to the North and South Pap, and the North Pap was chosen as morning tea was rapidly approaching. The hike to the top of this summit is the more demanding one, and was a great heart starter for the morning. This peak is just over 700m above sea level and afforded our group 360-degree views encompassing nearby Mansfield, a snow-capped Mount Buller, a distant Lake Nillahcootie, and the arms of neighbouring Lake Eildon.
Patches of cloud, reminding me of cotton balls, floated past as we consumed a leisurely morning tea. It was here that Tracey spotted an echidna which had climbed into a fenced area near the tower. Being confined in such a small area with no place to hide, this made for some great closeup photos. Before our departure, the group gathered for a customary collective photo opportunity, and then headed back down towards the junction.
It was during the descent that Murray and I spotted a fox running through the bush, cross the road, before once again disappearing into the bush on the other side. Why did the fox cross the road? To get to the chicken on the other side.
Once the junction was reached at the bottom, it was simply a matter of following the road towards the southern Pap. While walking, several vehicles passed us on their way to the top of each Pap. One such vehicle stopped to chat, and they introduced themselves as members of the Strzelecki Bush Walking club. This ascent was a gentler one, and once the top of the southern Pap was reached, great views of Lake Eildon, and surrounding farmland were observed.
Apparently, the word Pap, is an interesting one to describe a peak. Google tells me it comes come from the Latin ‘papilla’. The Scots use the word to mean breast. I won’t go into too much more detail, although Andy delighted in telling us, in a marvellous Scottish accent, sufficiently more information about the history of it all. You know how Mount Buffalo looked like a buffalo to Hume and Hovell and hence got its name? Well apparently, these two mountains reminded someone of something too, and it wasn’t a two humped camel.
At the summit of the southern Pap, we consumed our lunch in glorious clear skies, with the sunshine warming our backs. One of the vehicles that had driven to the top did so for the purpose of hang-gliding. Our group didn’t hang around long enough to see the take-off or landing. The hang glider didn’t make the evening news, so I assume they had a great day out too. After another group photo, we decided to try and follow a little used bush track for part of the return walk.
By we, I mean Murray, Sara and I decided on behalf of the group. It was a steep descent for the first immediate section and then transformed into pleasant bush surroundings. On our printed maps the bush track looked most definite. The reality however was somewhat different. Fortunately, Avenza maps was providing sufficient assistance along the way.
One of the club’s newer members, Eden, asked whether this trail was shorter than simply following the road, or just an adventure. It was, for the record, an adventurous shortcut. The most difficult part of this bush track was navigating back towards the dirt road and tackling the short, steep, wet grassy incline up to it. And although there was one minor tumble, no bushwalkers were seriously harmed in the undertaking of today’s walk.
During the last few hundred metres of road walking, another echidna was spotted by Sara, before everyone finally reached the cars. Club members will no doubt be aware that Pat Kuhle, our wonderful afternoon tea caterer and ‘keeper of the urns’, has retired from this position. Unwilling to try and compete with the legend of her treasured afternoon teas, I opted for coffee, hot chocolate and cake at the Barjarg coffee shop a short drive away.
More than just a coffee shop, it is a mix of antiques and bric-a-brac, and as we relaxed outside under umbrellas and outdoor settings, we were entertained by the ‘Andy and Tracey Show’. Coming soon to an RSL club near you. It was a pleasant way to end the afternoon, although the local Superb Fairywrens were disappointed in the scarce cake crumbs left behind.
All the walkers agreed the bushland, great views and impeccable weather made a great day to be out and about. The planned 12.5km hike was shortened a little, with the bush track to about 11.5km and completed in 4¼ hours. A fantastic little walk that will surely be added to our program again in the future.
Michael Braendler